market wine as a health elixir. Food and Wines from France, which promotes Gallic
products overseas, placed full-page newspaper ads announcing that French consumption
of fatty food was counteracted by drinking French red wine.
"[Health] announcements are increasing consumption more than anything else," said
Stephanie Grubbs, marketing manager for Robert Mondavi Coastal, in Impact magazine in
1997. That same year, three out of four readers in the January Consumer Reports on
Health survey believed that moderate red wine consumption is more beneficial than
drinking beer or liquor.
Recently, the San Francisco-based Wine Institute helped some California wineries get
permission from the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco and Firearms (BATF) to add a label
referring consumers to the federal dietary guidelines to learn the "health effects"
of alcohol. But anyone who actually sent for the document would discover that the
government's advice on alcohol is mostly cautionary.
Inflamed by the belief that the wine industry was using the label to make it appear
that the government was suggesting Americans drink for their health, Senator Strom
Thurmond (R-SC), whose daughter was killed by a drunk driver, recently won a battle
for the BATF to hold hearings on whether the "health effects" label can legally be
affixed to every wine bottle. They're scheduled to take place in a number of U.S.
cities in late spring.
Today the Wine Institute touts its product on its website with studies and press
releases. One quotes David Pittman, Ph.D., researcher at Washington University in
St. Louis: "In societies such as France, Italy, Spain and Portugal, where wine and
overall alcohol consumption is higher than in the United States, they just don't have
as many alcohol-related problems such as drunk driving and underage drinking."
That would be news to France.
The world view that the French are able to control their drinking habits is untrue,
according to Pierre Kopp, professor of economics at the Sorbonne. Kopp recently
released the first French study estimating the cost of legal (alcohol and tobacco)
and illegal drugs. Kopp estimates that alcohol costs France $18.5 billion (U.S.)
each year. Drinking is responsible for nearly 53 percent of overall social costs of
alcohol, tobacco and illegal drugs, he reports. (Annual cost to the state is $14.3
billion for tobacco and $2 billion for illegal drugs.)
But even these high alcohol economic cost figures are underestimated, cautions the
researcher, because he left out alcohol-related crime and accidents, which comprise
some of the largest costs to society in the United States. Kopp focused on public
and private money spent on medical treatment, lost productivity, absenteeism,
uncollected taxes, unpaid health contributions, and preventive measures.
[...]
"Consumption is exceptionally high and the final bill is extremely heavy. Alcohol
accounted for 42,963 deaths in France in 1997."
[...]
When "60 Minutes" introduced the French Paradox to America, Morley Safer featured
only one French scientific authority - Serge Renaud, a trendsetter in alcohol
research who still maintains that "there is no doubt that a moderate intake of wine
(one to three glasses per day for a man) is associated with a 30- to 40-percent
reduction in mortality from all causes." In its first issue of the new millennium,
the prestigious British journal Lancet noted in a short profile of Renaud that his
enthusiasm for alcohol and the French Paradox is hardly unanimous today among his
French peers. In fact, at least two of the scientists instrumental in early French