37550.fb2 Chateau of Echoes - читать онлайн бесплатно полную версию книги . Страница 42

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Lexicon of French Cooking Terms

Apéritifs-Drinks served before dinner to stimulate the appetite. Traditionally they have been sweet fortified wines (Banyuls, Muscat, Frontignanc), liqueurs (Porto, Madeira, Samos, Pineau), Vermouth, drinks with a wine base (Martini, Byrrh, Campari), anise-flavored drinks (Pastis, Ricard), whisky, and grain alcohols (gin, vodka, aquavit, sake).

Armagnac-Grape brandy produced in the Gascony region of France that has notes of prune and plum. The best Armagnacs come from the Bas Armagnac (lower Armagnac) district. Unlike the double distillation process for Cognacs, most Aramagnacs are distilled only once and then aged in oak barrels. They are distinguished by designations such as VS, VSOP, and XO, which designate the youngest liquid used in the blend, by the age of the brandy, and by their vintage if the blend of grape juices used in the mix is from the same year.

Baguettes-The classic French bread, it is a crusty, elongated yeast bread made with wheat flour, water, salt, and yeast.

Béchamel sauce-The classic white sauce. Made with butter, flour, milk, and seasoned with nutmeg, salt, and pepper.

Blanquette de veau-A ragoût made with veal, leeks, carrots, and onions. The thickening of the sauce is done with egg yolks, cream, and lemon juice. Traditionally it is served with white rice or steamed potatoes and a Saint-Joseph wine.

Boeuf bourguignon-A ragoût made using tougher pieces of beef, onions, carrots, bacon, mushrooms, tomato paste, a bottle of red burgundy wine, and seasoned with a bouquet garni and garlic.

Bouquet garni-Sprigs of parsley, thyme, and a bay leaf tied together and used to flavor a recipe. It may also include sage, celery, or rosemary. This “bouquet” of herbs is always withdrawn from the dish before serving.

Braisé de boeuf-Braised beef, cooked with onions, white wine, lemon, garlic, diced bacon, and flavored with parsley, thyme, and bay leaf. Braising is a cooking technique in which tougher, less expensive cuts of meat are steamed in a covered pot with very little liquid.

Brioche-Sweet yeast bread made with butter and eggs, it can be baked in different shapes of molds. The dough must go through three periods of rising before being baked.

Bruschetta-An Italian appetizer made of thickly sliced bread, traditionally grilled and rubbed with garlic. It is served with olive oil and salt. Many times it is garnished with tomatoes, herbs, cheese, or other accompaniments.

Bûche de Noël-A French Christmas tradition, this pastry is most often made of a thin rolled cake frosted with chocolate, vanilla, or coffee-flavored butter cream, to look like a log, and decorated with meringue mushrooms and almond paste holly leaves.

Carte Noir-A popular brand of French coffee that can be purchased at a grocery store.

Cassoulet-A hearty stew from southwestern France, this ragoût mixes white beans and meat in one of three styles: Castelnaudary is made with pork (ham and sausage); Carcassonne is made with mutton and partridge; Toulouse is made with pork, mutton, and local sausage.

Cidre-Hard apple cider. It is fermented without the addition of sugar or yeast. Often identified with the Breton and Norman cuisines and regions of France.

Civet de sanglier-A ragoût made from wild boar simmered with red wine; a civet is always finished with the addition of blood from the animal being cooked (or pig’s blood in a pinch) to thicken the sauce.

Confiture-Jam or preserves made with cooked fruit and using sugar as the preserving agent. In France, commercial jams labeled “extra” contain at least 45 percent fruit. Regular confiture must contain at least 35 percent fruit.

Confiture de figues et marrons-Fig and chestnut jam.

Coquilles St. Jacques-Sea scallops. Their season runs from September to May, and there are two varieties: Atlantic or Mediterranean. The classic preparation is served in shells with shallots and mushrooms in a béchamel sauce, garnished with mashed potatoes piped along the edge of the shell.

Cordon Bleu-Founded in 1895, Le Cordon Bleu offers instruction in cuisine and pastry as well as degrees in different areas of hospitality and a Master of Arts in Gastronomy. According to their promotional literature, “The origin of the expression ‘Cordon Bleu’ comes from the 1578 foundation of the Order of Knights of the Holy Spirit. The members of the order wore a medal suspended on a blue ribbon and their spectacular feasts became legendary. The expression ‘Cordon Bleu’ was then later applied to mean an outstanding chef.” Le Grand Diplôme Le Cordon Bleu may be earned in nine intensive months of study.

Cornichons-These miniature cucumbers conserved in seasoned vinegar are a classic accompaniment for cold and boiled meats, pâtés, terrines, and are also featured as an ingredient in many sauces.

Crème anglaise-Cream made with milk, vanilla beans, egg yolks, and sugar. Always served cold, it is used as an ingredient in various desserts, as a base for ice cream, and for drizzling over cakes and other sweets.

Crème caramels-A custard or flan cooked in a caramel-lined mold or ramekin.

Crème fraîche-The product of skimming whole milk, this cream is the consistency of sour cream but with a sweeter taste. It is used in many sauces, as a thickening agent in various dishes and as an accompaniment for desserts.

Crêpes-Of Breton origin, these flat “pancakes” are made with flour, milk, and either salt or sugar depending on whether they will be used for a sweet or savory dish. Traditionally crêpes made with buckwheat flour, galettes sarrasin, or crêpes noires, were used for savory dishes and crêpes made with white flour were used for desserts. In general, crêpes are served simply in France. For lunch or dinner with fillings of ham, cheese, egg, and/or mushrooms. For dessert with sugar, chocolate, fruit, jam, or nutella.

Crêpes suzettes-A dessert crêpe in which mandarin juice and curaçao are added to the crêpe batter. It is served spread with butter mixed with mandarin juice and zest, sugar, and curaço, and may be garnished with sections of mandarin and syrup made with mandarin zest. It should never be served flaming.

Croissants-Although associated with France, this crescent-shaped flaky butter pastry is actually of Viennese origin. The best are usually purchased from a pastry maker at a pâtisserie, as opposed to a baker at a boulangerie. It is generally preferable to eat them plain, although they may be served with jam, baked with ham or cheese, or glazed as a dessert.

Croquembouche-A cone-shaped, tiered dessert, a croquembouche is formed by stacking small caramel-coated cream puffs intermixed with dipped fruits, coated almonds, or sugared flowers and then is surrounded by a cage of caramel.

Croque-monsieur-Grilled ham and gruyère cheese sandwich. The addition of an egg turns the sandwich into a croque-madame.

Digestifs-Alcohol or liqueur served at the end of a meal-traditionally Cognac, Armagnac, or Calvados.

Endives gratinée-Endives wrapped with ham and cooked au gratin in a béchamel sauce.

Espresso-Suffering from much the same weather as the Pacific Northwest, those in northern France and Brittany drink a large amount of espresso. In fact, ordering un café- a coffee-in France will get you a shot of espresso served in a demitasse cup.

Filet mignon de porc-Pork tenderloin. May be cooked as one piece, slit and stuffed, sliced and served as medallions, or cubed and used for shish kebabs.

Filets de pintade aux cèpes et aux girolles-Guinea fowl filets cooked with porcini and chanterelle mushrooms.

Fines herbes-A mixture of freshly chopped parsley, chervil, tarragon, and chives.

Flamiche aux poireaux-A savory leek and egg tart from the northern French region of Picardy.

Foie gras-The liver of a force-fed goose or duck. Traditionally, these fowl were handfed on corn every day for two or three weeks, mimicking the natural tendency for water fowl to gorge themselves for several weeks before beginning migratory flights, to store excess fat in their livers. Associated with the cuisine of southwestern France, foie gras is also produced in Alsace and in Brittany.

Fruits verger-Orchard fruits: pears, apples, plums, quince, etc.

Galette des rois-This “kings cake” is traditionally served on Epiphany to celebrate the three kings’ visit to the baby Jesus. Made of flaky pastry and filled with frangipane, a fava bean or small ceramic favor is hidden and cooked inside. The person who receives the piece with the prize is king or queen and must choose his or her queen or king. The galettes are usually sold with paper crowns.

Gâteau au chocolat-Chocolate cake with the intense flavor of a truffle and the texture of a mousse.

Gâteau aux trois chocolates-Chocolate cake made with white, milk, and dark chocolate.

Gelée-Gelatin used as an aspic in savory dishes or as a dessert with a base of fruit, wine, or liqueur.

Gnocchi-A hot baked dish served au gratin. In France, gnocchi à la parisienne is traditionally prepared with cream puff dough. Gnocchi may also be prepared with corn flour and boiled with parmesan or made with potato dough and cream.

Gougère bourguignonne-A bread made from cream puff dough with grated gruyère cheese, it is shaped into balls or into a wreath. It is served as an hors d’oeuvre or appetizer.

Gratin-A method of cooking in which grated cheese, white sauce, or bread crumbs added to the top of an oven-cooked dish turn golden and crusty from the heat.

Gratin dauphinois-Sliced potatoes cooked au gratin with a white sauce and grated cheese.

Gruyère-A cheese that is made of heated milk and is shaped into a large wheel. In taste and appearance, it is similar to “Swiss” cheese. Gruyère itself does not have an AOC (appellation d’origine contrôlée) and therefore is not regulated by the French government in terms of place, method, or quality of production. Only 36 cheeses in France are AOC, among them several gruyère-style cheeses: comté and beaufort.

Haricots verts-Green beans both narrower and sweeter than the common North American varieties. Their season runs from May to October, although imports from Kenya or Senegal may be purchased during the winter months.

Île flottante-Floating island; a dessert consisting of meringues “floating” in a lake of crème anglaise.

Jambon au cidre-Ham cooked in hard cider.

Joue de lotte-Jowls of the monkfish.

Laurier-Bay leaf.

Limoncello-Italian liqueur made from fermented lemons. The best limoncello comes from the Amalfi Coast and the island of Capri.

Macaroni-French elbow macaroni is smaller than its American equivalent. As a side dish, it is usually served buttered with chives.

Magret de canard-A tender filet of meat taken from the breast of a duck. It is cooked much like a steak and served rare.

Maury wine-A sweet wine fortified with clear brandy, and made from Grenache noir grapes in the Maury commune in the Côtes du Roussillon-Villages area of southern France. The wines have notes of red fruits, cocoa, and coffee. It may also be drunk as an aperitif.

Mille feuille-A dish traditionally made of flaky pastry layered with fillings. The dessert version contains sweet fillings such as pastry cream or whipped cream and is topped with fondant or powdered sugar. Contemporary versions of Mille feuille may also be made with savory fillings, or may use an alternative to the layers of flaky pastry, as in the recipe that follows this section.

Mont d’Or-or Vacherin du Haut Doubs, this dessert cheese has an AOC by which the government controls the place, method of fabrication, and quality of the cheese. Mont d’Or lies near the Swiss border, and this winter cheese has been made in that region for two centuries. Sold in a box and encircled by a length of pine wood, it continues to ripen until it is eaten. It is produced over a period of three weeks and then finished on spruce planks, where it is regularly flipped and rubbed with a canvas soaked in brine.

Moules marinaire-Mussels cooked in a marinade of white wine, butter, thyme, bay leaf, onion, and parsley.

Mousse de potiron au gingembre-Pumpkin and ginger mousse.

Navarin d’agneau-A ragoût of mutton or lamb cooked with potatoes and vegetables. Traditionally made in the spring with baby vegetables, it is seasoned with white wine, garlic, nutmeg, and a bouquet garni.

Oeufs en gelée-Hard-cooked eggs halved and then individually molded with Madeira-flavored gelatin, ham, and an assortment of chopped vegetables.

Pains au chocolat-Flaky croissant-like butter pastry baked around tablets of dark chocolate.

Pâté-Most often based on meat (pork, veal, fowl, game, and/or their variety meats), traditionally, a pâté is a meat stuffing wrapped in dough and baked. It may or may not be molded; it may be served hot or cold. A looser definition includes a pâté meant to be served in slices, cooked in a terrine dish and served cold, known as a pâté de campagne; or a pâté meant to be spread, i.e., foie gras.

Pâté de lapin aux noisettes-Pâté of rabbit with hazelnuts, seasoned with Porto, sausage, chicken livers, onions, chervil, thyme, and bay leaf.

Pintade aux figues sèches-Guinea fowl cooked with dried figs. A guinea fowl may be used as a substitute in recipes using pheasant or partridge.

Poulet rôti-Roasted chicken most commonly prepared on a rôtisserie.

Profiteroles-These miniature cream puffs may be stuffed with savory filling and served as an appetizer or with pastry cream, whipped cream, or jam and served as a dessert. Most common is a filling of vanilla ice cream with a garnish of hot chocolate sauce.

Ragoût-A dish combing two cooking methods: browning and simmering. The food is first browned, and then slowly simmered in an aromatic liquid. Flour is used as a thickening agent.

Ratatouille-A ragoût of vegetables originating from Nice in southern France, it includes onions, zucchini, tomatoes, peppers, and eggplants seasoned with garlic, olive oil, bay leaf, and thyme. Ratatouille is often used as an accompaniment for meats. It may be served hot or cold.

Rillettes-A spread traditionally made from pork or goose cooked in its own grease. It may be spread on grilled bread as an hors d’oeuvre, used as an ingredient in canapés, or used to make sandwiches. Rillettes from the area of Tours are darker and of finer texture than those from Mans or Sarthe in southern France. A stamp of qualité supérieure on the jar notes a product with less fat than a rillettes traditionnelles.

Roquefort-A blue cheese and the first cheese in France to be given an AOC, which controls the place, method of fabrication, and quality of the product. Roquefort is ripened in natural caves in Mont Combalou in the commune of Roquefort-sur-Soulzon for at least three months, but generally from four to nine months.

Salade composées-A salad served as an appetizer that has been artfully arranged on individual plates and that generally uses a wide variety of ingredients such as meat, liver, shellfish, foie gras, lettuce, potatoes, apples, mushrooms, etc.

Sauce béarnaise-A sauce made of egg yolks, butter, and lemon and seasoned with shallots, tarragon, chervil, thyme, bay leaf, white wine vinegar, and white wine. This sauce should be made just before serving and should obtain the consistency of mayonnaise.

Saumur-champigny-From the Anjou-Saumur region of the Loire Valley, this wine is a light, lively red with notes of red currant and is made from a blend of cabernet franc and cabernet sauvignon grapes. It may be produced in any of nine communes within the Saumur-Champigny district. Wines carrying this designation must be aged at least a year. This wine is a good accompaniment for duck.

Sauternes-A white dry, sweet wine from the Sauternes, Barsac, Bommes, Fargues, or Preignac subregions of Bordeaux. The best come from Sauternes and Barsac. Made from a blend of sémillon and sauvignon blanc grapes, a later harvest in fall allows the development of mold on the fruit, which dehydrates them, thereby concentrating the sugar in the juice. Due to the concentration of sugar, the fermentation process may require up to a year, after which it is aged for at least two years in a cask.

Sorbets-An iced dessert made from sugar syrup and a fruit purée or fruit juice, wine, or alcohol. A sorbet recipe may also incorporate a meringue to give volume to the mixture.

Sorbet des agrumes-A sorbet of citrus fruits, including oranges, grapefruit, mandarins, clémentines, lemons, kumquat, Satsuma, and tangelos.

Tagliatelle-Fettucine. Made from egg dough, this pasta is formed into large ribbons; the pasta may be colored green with the addition of spinach to the dough.

Terrine-Traditionally, a pâté to be served sliced made with pork, fowl, or game. Currently, the term is also applied to molded dishes made with fish, shellfish, or vegetables, which often use gelatin to bind the ingredients.

Three-star restaurant-France’s Michelin company rates restaurants each year on two scales: luxury and quality of food. The luxury scale rates from one to five crossed knives and forks; the food scale rates from one to three stars. There were only ten three-star restaurants in Paris in 2003. Restaurants are rated by Michelin’s anonymous critics who note such things as food quality, setting, decor, restrooms, linens, service, kitchen, and wines. A three-star restaurant must have exceptional cuisine, superb food, fine wines, and faultless service that make it worth a special journey to visit.

Tourte bourguignon-A meat pie made with beef, onions, carrots, bacon, mushrooms, and tomato paste and flavored with a bouquet garni, garlic, and red burgundy wine.

Veal marsala-Veal cooked in marsala dessert wine from Sicily and seasoned with sage.