EPIGRAPH
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 143.
PROLOGUE: You’re Proud, You’ll Suffer
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 40.
2 Ibid., p. 34.
3 Ibid., p. 41.
4 Ibid.
5 Ibid., pp. 20–21.
6 Ibid., p. 56.
7 Ibid., p. 42.
CHAPTER 1: Forebears
1 Jean Cocteau, Past Tense, vol. I, p. 50.
2 Eugen Weber, Peasants into Frenchmen, p. 410.
CHAPTER 2: The Bad One
1 Henry Gidel, Coco Chanel, pp. 21–25.
2 Ibid., p. 30.
CHAPTER 3: The Lost Years
1 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 45.
2 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 22.
3 Ibid., both references p. 22.
4 Ibid., p. 23.
5 Ibid.
6 Marquand, p. 61.
7 Morand, Allure, p. 30.
8 Ibid., p. 24.
9 Eugen Weber, Peasants into Frenchmen, p. 325.
10 Ibid., pp. 326, 455.
11 Ibid., p. 313.
12 Ibid.
13 Morand, Allure, p. 19.
14 Ibid., p. 20.
15 Ibid., p. 19.
CHAPTER 4: Things That I Should Be and Which I Am Not
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 27.
2 Ibid., p. 28.
3 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 79.
4 Morand, Allure, p. 29.
5 Charles Roux, p. 84.
6 Morand, Allure, p. 31.
7 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 60.
8 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette, p. 111. This superlative biography of Colette was a fascinating comparison in my gradual understanding of Gabrielle.
9 Hickman, p. 12.
10 Liane de Pougy, My Blue Notebooks, p. 51.
11 Galante, p. 54.
CHAPTER 5: A Rich Man’s Game
1 Paul Morand, Venices, p. 42.
2 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette, p. 113.
3 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 52.
4 Ibid.
5 Ibid., p. 146.
6 Ibid., p 31.
7 Shari Benstock, Women of the Left Bank, p. 46.
8 Ibid., pp. 54, 228.
9 Thurman, p. 165.
10 Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion, p. 164
11 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 22.
12 Morand, Allure, p. 56.
13 Steele, Paris Fashion, p. 172.
14 Ibid., p. 170.
15 Ibid., p. 173, and Amy de la Haye, Chanel: The Couturière at Work, p. 9.
16 Galante, p. 63.
17 Ibid.
18 Morand, Allure, p. 39.
CHAPTER 6: Captive Mistress
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 32.
2 Ibid., p. 23, and Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 79.
3 Katie Hickman, Courtesans, p. 6. Hickman was most instructive in my understanding of the courtesan’s attitudes and milieu.
4 Morand, Allure, p. 33.
5 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 115, and Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 55.
6 Isabelle Fiemeyer, Coco Chanel: Un parfum de mystère, pp. 37, 53.
7 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 65.
8 Morand, Allure, p. 33.
9 Marquand, p. 56.
10 Morand, Allure, p. 33.
11 Marquand interview with author, January 2010.
12 Fiemeyer, p. 50.
13 Lourdes Font, Fashion Theory, p. 305.
14 Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 23.
15 Ibid., p. 87.
16 Ibid., p. 108.
17 Morand, Allure, pp. 34, 53.
18 Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 120.
19 Morand, Allure, p. 34.
20 Ibid., pp. 33, 39.
21 Ibid., p. 34.
22 Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 307.
23 Morand, Allure, p. 34.
24 Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 306.
25 Morand, Allure, p. 32.
26 Henry Gidel, Coco Chanel, p. 53.
27 Ronald Courtenay Bodley, Indiscretions of a Young Man, p. 122.
28 Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 307.
29 Morand, Allure, p. 36.
30 Ibid.
31 Ibid., p. 34.
CHAPTER 7: Arthur Capel
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 20.
2 Ibid., p. 34.
3 Arthur’s and his father Arthur Joseph’s birth certificates as well as the Census records revealed Arthur’s antecedents and their subsequent betterment.
4 Arthur Edward Capel was born at Bedford House, Marine Parade, Brighton.
5 Arthur Joseph Capel (from the London post office directory, between 1875 and 1884, one sees Arthur’s father’s rise to prominence as an entrepreneur). In 1874, he was a businessman and agent for travelers to Paris, and by 1880 he had become a major agent for train and shipping companies in Ireland, England, France and Spain. In 1884, he was a founder of a compressed air company licensed to lay pipes through the streets (Bulletin of Warwickshire Industrial Archeology Society, issue 5, summer 1995). This must have been a very lucrative venture.
6 Joseph’s diverse business interests now required distant travel. In December 1884, he was at a coming-out ball for debutantes at Delmonico’s, the most distinguished public dining rooms in New York (The New York Times). By 1885, it appears he no longer needed to work.
7 Philip Sydney, Modern Rome in Modern England, pp. 114–15.
8 I am indebted to Father Tom McCoog, archivist at the British Province of the Society of Jesus, Mount Street, London, who pointed out the unlikelihood of Arthur’s attendance at Downside and suggested Stonyhurst as his school, and also passed me on to Bernardo Caparrini, who has worked on the history of Beaumont College. Bernardo recommended me to David Knight, archivist at Stonyhurst College, who was assiduous on my behalf in discovering Stonyhurst’s record of Arthur (including a photo of him with fellow Gentlemen Philosophers). In the Stonyhurst log, in Arthur’s own hand, he details his place of birth and schooling. The information at Stonyhurst was invaluable in my search for this most elusive man.
9 From Bernardo Caparrini, I had these crucial references for Arthur’s movements: The Beaumont Lists for Fifty Years, 1861–1911; Supplement to The Beaumont Review Old Windsor; The Beaumont Review Office, 1911, p. 17; The Beaumont Lists, 1861–1961; The Beaumont Review, no. 207, October. 1963, p. 470. Bernardo also referred to “a manuscript document at the Mount Street archives (box PE/2) titled “Lists from 1887–1909 (with follow-up notes)”… in which it says (folio 190)… “Capel, Arthur Edward (entered Oct. 14, 1891; left Aug., 1897) b. Brighton 1881, was at a school in Paris. Went to San Sebastian in Spain. Was a Philosopher at Stonyhurst, where he carried off the Keating Prize…” (The “Keating Prize” was for the best essay on Christian Sociology.)
10 H. J. A. Sire, Gentlemen Philosophers, p. 5. Sire, suggested by Bernardo Caparrini, details life at Stonyhurst College for the Gentlemen Philosophers.
11 The New York Times, June 12, 1902.
12 Arthur Capel noted at a polo match at Deauville. Le Gaulois, August 16, 1909.
13 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 61.
14 Following polo at Deauville, Arthur is noted by Le Gaulois arriving at Dieppe on his yacht and then spotted the next day at the casino. Throughout the 1910s, he is regularly referred to in Le Figaro, The New York Times, et cetera.
15 Letter from Arthur Capel to Diana Wyndham: “I hate the main road & the crowd. The world I know is of my own making, the other makes me sick. Their morals, their convictions, their ambitions mean nothing to me. Fancy, sympathy & illusion have ever been my bed mates & I would never change them for Consideration, Position or Power.” Capel correspondence, courtesy of Christopher Osborn. This letter is undated, as are all those from Arthur.
16 Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion, pp. 71–72. I based my argument here on Ms. Steele’s description of the grisettes in this thought-provoking book.
17 Ibid., p. 71.
18 Ibid.
19 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 113.
20 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre née de Gramont, Mémoires, vol. IV, La treizième heure, p. 154.
CHAPTER 8: Refashioning Paris
1 Vanessa Schwartz, Spectacular Realities, p. 229. Ms. Schwartz informed my descriptions of the development of mass culture in Paris.
2 Colin Jones, Paris: Biography of a City, p. 410. I am indebted, for this section, to this excellent work on Paris.
3 Ibid., p. 365.
4 Ibid., p. 386.
5 Schwartz, p. 92.
6 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 37.
7 Ibid.
8 Ibid.
9 Arthur Capel, What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of?, p. 77.
CHAPTER 9: The Rite of Spring
1 Revue de Paris, t. 6, pp. 279, 276. Blanche, regarded by some as ingratiating, was sharp tongued, a fine portraitist, and also made it his business to know everyone.
2 Modris Eksteins, Rites of Spring, p. 31.
3 Ibid., p. 72.
4 Ibid., p. 73.
5 Sjeng Scheijen, Diaghilev, p. 454.
6 Jane Pritchard, Diaghilev and the Golden Age of the Ballets Russes, “Diaghilev the Man,” p. 41.
7 Eksteins, p. 39.
8 Mary Davis, Classic Chic, p. 26. Mary Davis’s seminal work was most helpful in the section on Poiret and the relationship between fashion and developing modernism.
9 Ibid.
10 Valerie Steele, Paris Fashion, p. 230.
11 Femina, September 1, 1913.
12 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 89.
13 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 37.
CHAPTER 10: The End of an Epoque
1 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 124.
2 Ibid.
3 Arthur Capel, What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of?, p. 18.
4 George de Symons Barrow, The Fire of Life, p. 149.
5 Ibid., p. 151.
6 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires, vol. III: Clair de lune et taxi-auto, p. 36.
7 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 43.
8 Ibid.
9 Ibid., pp. 43, 45.
1 °Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires, vol. III, p. 79.
11 Ernest de la Grange, Open House in Flanders, December 29, 1914, p. 77.
CHAPTER 11: Master of Her Art
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 46.
2 All references in this section ibid., p. 52.
3 Ibid., p. 45.
4 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 37.
5 Amy de la Haye, Chanel: The Couturière at Work, p. 20.
6 Baronne de la Grange, Open House in Flanders, August 8, 1915, p. 143.
7 Morand, Allure, p. 39.
8 Galante, p. 38.
9 Ibid., p. 37.
10 Ibid.
11 Ibid., p. 39.
12 Ibid.
13 Morand, Allure, p. 42.
CHAPTER 12: The War Bans the Bizarre
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 38.
2 Letter from “the General Officer, Commander in Chief, the British Army in France” to “the Secretary, War Office, London,” March 20, 1916, National Archives, Kew.
3 C. E. Callwell, Sir Henry Wilson: His Life and Diaries, vol. I, p. 205.
4 Morand, Allure, p. 42.
5 Max Egremont, Under Two Flags, p. 27. This admirable biography was instructive in my understanding of what Arthur Capel’s work as a liaison officer would have been like. Spears’s comments on Arthur (from Spears’s diaries in Colonel Anthony Aylmer’s collection) were another vital step in discovering Arthur’s life.
6 Cahiers André Gide, vol. VIII, p. 214, J. E. Blanche to André Gide, February 15, 1917.
7 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 162, and John Pomian, J. Retinger: Memoirs of an Eminence Grise, p. 35.
8 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 184.
9 Sjeng Scheijen, Diaghilev, p. 323.
10 Mary Davis, Classic Chic, p. 117.
11 Scheijen, p. 331.
12 Davis, p. 117.
13 Ibid., pp. 128–29.
CHAPTER 13: Remember That You’re a Woman
1 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 164.
2 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 198.
3 Ibid., p. 196.
4 Ibid., p. 202.
5 Ibid., p. 197.
6 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 144.
7 Ibid., p. 135.
8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 143.
9 Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 142.
10 Sir Jeremy Hutchinson in interview with author, September 2008.
11 Christopher Osborn in interview with author, September 2008.
12 Arthur Capel’s correspondence, Christopher Osborn. These letters proved invaluable in “reading” Arthur and the relationships with Diana and Gabrielle.
13 Ibid.
14 Christopher Osborn, in interview with author, June 2009.
15 Arthur Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
16 Ibid.
17 Max Egremont, Under Two Flags, p. 66.
18 Michelle Maurois, Déchirez cette lettre, p. 125.
19 Edward Stanley, Paris 1918: The War Diary of the British Ambassador, May 29, 1918, p. 25.
20 Georges Bernstein-Gruber, Bernstein le magnifique, p. 165.
21 Arthur Capel, What Will Tomorrow Be Made Of?, p. 79.
22 Ibid., pp. 79–80.
23 Ibid., p. 80.
24 Maurois, p. 160.
25 Morand, Allure, p. 43.
CHAPTER 14: Alone
1 Paul Morand, Lewis et Irène, p. 140.
2 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 37.
3 Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
4 The Papers of Alfred Duff Cooper (1st Viscount Norwich), DUFC 12/8, July 5, 1918, Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.
5 Ibid.
6 Scotland’s People website, www.scotlandspeople.gov.uk.
7 Edward Stanley, Earl of Derby, Paris 1918: The War Diary of the British Ambassador, August 11, 1918, pp. 133–34.
8 Georges Bernstein-Gruber, Bernstein le magnifique, p. 166.
9 Benquet Agency letters.
10 Earl of Derby, p. 161, August 22, 1918.
11 Michelle Maurois, Déchirez cette lettre, p. 15.
12 Ibid., p. 160.
13 Liane de Pougy, My Blue Notebooks, p. 54.
14 Lady d’Abernon, Red Cross and Berlin Embassy, 1915–1926: Extracts from the Diaries of Viscountess d’Abernon, November 28, 1918, p. 56. My thanks here to Lady Polly Feversham.
15 Christopher Osborn in interview with author.
16 Ibid.
17 Viscount Norwich, Duff Cooper Diaries, April 9, 1918, October 29, 1918, and November 5, 1918. The notion that Duff Cooper and Diana Capel had an affair (Justine Picardie, Coco Chanel, p. 88) is based on a misreading of these diaries.
18 Ibid., November 11, 1919.
19 Phillip Norcross Gross, Oscar Edward Fleming’s nephew, has been helpful with new information on Antoinette Fleming née Chanel.
20 Norwich, December 23, 1919. These diary entries proved crucial in the last piece of the Arthur Capel/Diana Capel/Chanel puzzle.
21 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 99.
22 Norwich, January 21, 1920.
23 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 178.
24 Stonyhurst Magazine and Le Gaulois, January 2, 1920.
25 Capel correspondence, Christopher Osborn.
26 Ibid.
27 Ibid.
28 Morand, Allure, pp. 54–55.
CHAPTER 15: Beginning Again
1 Colin Simpson, Artful Partners, pp. 168–78.
2 Elisabeth de Clermont-Tonnerre, Mémoires, vol. IV, La Treizième Heure, p. 154.
3 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 183, and Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 106.
4 Services Archives-Documentation, Mairie de Garches.
5 Churchill Archives Center DUFC12/8, 17.
6 Paul Morand, Venices, p. 121.
7 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 59.
8 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 112.
9 Ibid.
1 °Charles Roux, p. 196.
11 Morand, Allure, p. 62.
12 Ibid., p. 60.
13 Ibid.
14 Ibid., p. 63.
15 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
16 Richard Buckle, Diaghilev, p. 161.
17 Morand, Allure, p. 84.
18 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso, vol. III, p. 39.
19 Buckle, p. 364.
20 Mary Davis, Classic Chic, p. 226.
21 Richardson, vol. III, p. 174.
CHAPTER 16: The Strangest and Most Brilliant Years
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 107.
2 Mary Davis, Classic Chic, p. 179.
3 Morand, Allure, p. 127.
4 Chanel interview BNF.
5 Richard Buckle, Diaghilev, p. 412.
6 Davis, pp. 183–85.
7 Ibid., p. 179.
8 Chanel interview BNF.
9 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso, vol. III, p. 177.
10 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography, p. 41.
11 Morand, Allure, p. 128.
12 Ibid., pp. 30–31.
13 Ibid., p. 31.
14 Morand, Lettres du voyageur, letter to Valentine Hugo, January 2, 1921.
15 Morand, Allure, p. 128.
16 Ibid., p. 81.
17 Chanel interview BNF.
18 Arthur Rubinstein, My Many Years, p. 151.
CHAPTER 17: Dmitri Pavlovich
1 Pavlovich diaries, February 9, 1921. For guiding my thoughts on Dmitri Pavlovich, and painstaking translations of all of the following diary entries, I am most grateful to William Lee. www.directarticle.org/Will_Lee_Sue_Woolmans.html.
2 Marie Pavlovna, A Princess in Exile, p. 71.
3 Ibid., p. 130.
4 Ibid.
5 Amanda Mackenzie Stuart, Consuelo and Alva Vanderbilt, p. 158.
6 Pavlovich, February 9, 1921.
7 Ibid., February 10, 1921.
8 Ibid.
9 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 132.
10 In conversation with William Lee.
11 Pavlovich, March 18, 1921.
12 Ibid., May 2, 1921.
13 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 26.
14 I am grateful to Philip Norcross Gross for this information.
15 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 176.
16 Haedrich, p. 26.
17 Pavlovich, May 4, 1921.
18 Ibid., May 5, 1921.
CHAPTER 18: The Lucky № 5
1 Vogue, October 1920.
2 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 201.
3 Ibid.
4 Ibid.
5 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 67.
6 Ibid., p. 69.
7 Ernest Beaux “Souvenir de parfums,” in Industrie de la parfumerie, vol. I, no. 7, October 1946.
8 Galante, p. 74.
9 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
10 Patrick Doucet painstakingly described the development of Chanel perfumes and helped me toward a chronology of № 5.
11 Chanel catalogue, Chanel Conservatoire.
12 Galante, p. 75.
13 Ibid.
14 Audio recording, Gabrielle Chanel, Bibliothèque Nationale de France (undated).
CHAPTER 19: Entirely in White and Covered in Pearls
1 All references in this paragraph are from Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 104.
2 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 268.
3 Jean Cocteau, Le passé défini, February 6, 1956, p. 42.
4 John Richardson, A Life of Picasso, vol. III, p. 87.
5 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 105.
6 Marie Pavlovna, A Princess in Exile, p. 174.
7 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 118.
8 Harper’s Bazaar, March 1937.
9 Madsen, p. 118.
10 All preceding quotes in this section are from Marie Pavlovna.
11 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography, p. 31.
12 Steegmuller, p. 170.
13 Ibid., pp. 241–42.
14 Ibid., p. 301.
15 Ibid., p. 308.
16 Ibid., p. 276.
17 Ibid., p. 297.
18 Chanel to Etienne de Beaumont in the Institut Mémoire de l’édition Contemporaine, fonds E. Beaumont.
19 Chanel correspondence, Chanel Conservatoire.
2 °Chanel archive.
CHAPTER 20: Reverdy
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 133.
2 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 370.
3 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 138.
4 Jean Cocteau, Le passé défini, vol. 5, April 1956, p. 91.
5 Collection Chanel, by kind permission of the estate of Pierre Reverdy.
6 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 325.
7 Roux, p. 230.
CHAPTER 21: At the Center
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 148.
2 Ibid., p. 118.
3 Ibid., p. 146.
4 Ibid., p. 147.
5 Ibid., pp. 145–48.
6 Carmel Snow, The World of Carmel Snow, p. 31.
7 Morand, Allure, pp. 122, 151.
8 Ibid., p. 123.
9 Whitney Chadwick and Tirza True Latimer, The Modern Woman Revisited, p. 89.
10 Ibid.
11 Ibid., p. 82.
12 Ibid., pp. 80–85.
13 Ibid.
14 Vogue, March 1, 1923.
15 Morand, Allure, p. 47.
16 Ibid., p. 155.
17 Ibid., p. 131.
18 Ibid., p. 133.
19 Arthur Rubinstein, My Many Years, p. 125.
20 Renée Mourgues, La République, October 13, 1994.
21 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 155.
22 Maurice Sachs, La Décade de l’illusion, p. 138.
CHAPTER 22: Bend’Or
1 Jean Cocteau, Lettres à sa mère, vol. V, May 24, 1957.
2 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 125.
3 George Ridley, Bend d’Or, Duke of Westminster, p. 141
4 Ibid.
5 Ibid., p. 134.
6 Winston and Clementine Churchill, Speaking for Themselves, p. 313.
7 Ibid., p. 306.
8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, pp. 158–59.
9 Ibid., p. 160.
10 Ibid., p. 165.
11 Ibid.
12 The Wendy and Emery Reves Collection catalogue, Dallas Museum of Art.
13 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 49.
14 Morand, Allure, p. 169.
15 Ibid., p. 69.
16 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 271.
17 Marcel Billot, Journal de l’Abbé Mugnier, August 6, 1928.
18 Axel Madsen: Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 172.
19 Vogue, August 1930.
20 Loelia, Duchess of Westminster, Grace and Favor, p. 159.
21 Dorothy Ponsonby, diaries, February 20, 1930.
22 Morand, Allure, p. 162.
23 Ibid., pp. 165–67.
24 Ridley, p. 167.
25 Morand, Allure, p. 167.
CHAPTER 23: The Crash
1 Francis C. Rose, Saying Life: The Memoirs of Sir Francis Rose, p. 154.
2 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 186.
3 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 151.
4 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 237.
5 Morand, Allure, pp. 149–50.
6 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette, p. 377.
7 Charles Roux, p. 291.
8 Morand, Chroniques, 1931–1954, p. 314.
9 Gaia Servadio, Luchino Visconti: A Biography, p. 40.
10 Ibid., p. 42.
11 Madsen, p. 210.
12 Ibid.
13 Servadio, p. 52.
14 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 108.
15 Ibid., p. 137.
16 Morand, Allure, p. 112.
17 Ibid., p. 111.
CHAPTER 24: Schiap Had Lots of It but It Was Bad
1 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 61.
2 Ibid., p. 62.
3 Ibid., p. 140.
4 Dalí letters to Gabrielle Chanel, Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí.
5 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 170.
6 Ibid., p. 172.
7 I am most grateful to Jean-Noël Liaut for this and much other useful information.
8 Marcel Billot, Journal de l’Abbé Mugnier, February 22, 1929.
9 Jean Hugo, Carnets, February 17, 1967.
CHAPTER 25: War
1 Janet Flanner, Paris Was Yesterday, p. 222.
2 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 170.
3 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 226.
4 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 373.
5 Flanner, p. 222.
6 Dalí letters to Gabrielle Chanel, Dalí correspondence, courtesy Fundació Gala-Salvador Dalí.
7 Madame Gabrielle Labrunie interview with the author.
8 Nicole Fenosa and Bertrand Tillier, Apelles Fenosa: Catalogue raisonné de l’œuvre sculpté.
9 Lilou Marquand interview with the author.
10 William Bullitt, pp. 481–86.
11 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 143.
12 Ibid., pp. 143–44.
CHAPTER 26: Survival
1 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 178.
2 Ibid.
3 Francis Steegmuller, Cocteau, p. 438.
4 Ibid., p. 439.
5 Julian Jackson, France: The Dark Years, pp. 360–63.
6 Ibid., p. 4.
7 Ibid., p. 199.
8 Ibid., p. 308.
9 Charles Roux, Chanel, pp. 324–25.
1 °Comte Jean d’Harcourt telephone interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
11 Archives of the Association Sainte Agnès, Saint-Martin-le-Vinoux, France.
12 Chanel Conservatoire interview, Mme Tassin.
13 Judith Thurman, Secrets of the Flesh: A Life of Colette, p. 197.
14 Ibid., p. 437.
15 Ibid., p. 436.
16 Jean d’Harcourt interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
17 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 290.
18 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 136.
19 Thurman, p. 445.
2 °Coleridge and Woolf quotes from John Kerrigan, The Sonnets and a Lover’s Complaint, p. 51.
21 Jean d’Harcourt interview with Adelia Sabatini, April 2010.
22 Jean-Noël Liaut interview with the author, July 2009.
23 In Meredith Etherington-Smith’s Dalí biography, The Persistence of Memory, “the opium — smoking Cécile Goudreau is a thinly disguised portraitof Coco Chanel — Dalí gives the game away when he has her mention the Auvergne, Chanel’s birthplace,” p. 283.
24 Ibid., p. 89.
25 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 171.
CHAPTER 27: Von Dincklage
1 M. Flügge, Rettung ohne Retter, p. 109.
2 This information and much of what follows on von Dincklage is taken from M. Flügge, p. 109, and from two documents in the Swiss Federal Archives, which include letters from von Dincklage’s lawyer. At the time, 1950, von Dincklage was trying to reenter Switzerland.
3 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 98.
4 Sybille Bedford, Quicksands, p. 90.
5 Archives Fédérales Suisses (Bundesarchiv): Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (1848–2009), File C.16-01373, February 2, 1950. According to this report, he was “directeur des transports” in Sanary.
6 Ibid.
7 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 94.
8 Flügge, p. 109.
9 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 96.
10 Bedford, p. 311.
11 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 94.
12 Ibid.
13 Bedford, p. 88.
14 Charles Coton interview, December 10, 1982, in Jacques Grandjonc and Theresia Grundtner, Zone d’ombres 1933–1944. Exil et internement d’Allemands et d’Autrichiens dans le Sud-Est de la France, p. 51.
15 Francine du Plessix Gray, Them, p. 170. The sections on von Dincklage in this brilliant and absorbing memoir proved critical in my unraveling of that secretly repugnant man’s chronology.
16 André Simone (pseudonym of Otto Katz), Men of Europe, pp. 16–17.
17 Das Braune Netz (The Brown Network), p. 95.
18 Ibid.
19 Ibid., pp. 96–102.
20 Von Dincklage’s lawyer’s statement and the Swiss Archive files cited above in note 2.
21 Bedford, p. 312. Here Bedford describes von Dincklage as “made for the job [of spy], an effective charmer, a ruthless social butterfly with a heart of steel, ignorant of ideals, other humans’ pains.”
22 Plessix Gray, p. 169.
23 Ibid., p. 171.
24 Ibid., p. 169.
25 Samuel Marx, Queen of the Ritz, p. 106.
26 Ibid.
27 Plessix Gray, p. 170.
28 Ibid.
29 Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (E4320B#1990/266#1551*, file C.16-01373 P); November 13, 1950, from the chief of police, Geneva, Switzerland, to his counterpart in Berne, Switzerland. The French intelligence report adds that von Dincklage “gave the impression he was trying to make deals with Germany and France… [he] visits one Leonardo Dickens (suspected of being head of Gestapo in Lugano).”
30 The police reports confirm von Dincklage’s position.
31 Plessix Gray, p. 218.
32 Dodie Kazanjian and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman, p. 98. (Charles Roux, Chanel, version of this episode is on pp. 315–17.)
33 Marx, p. 179.
34 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 242.
35 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
36 Archiv des Schweizerischen Bundesstaates (E4320B#1990/266#1551*, file C.16-01373 P); November 13, 1950, from the chief of police, Geneva, Switzerland, to his counterpart in Berne, Switzerland.
37 Marx, p. 174.
38 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
39 Denis Demonpion, Arletty, p. 225.
40 Jean d’Harcourt interview, July 2009.
41 Ibid.
42 Ibid.
43 Charles Roux, p. 344.
44 Ibid., p. 334.
45 Letters between Churchill’s office, the Foreign Office, Vera Bate and Chanel (CHAR 1/ 272/, CHAR20/198 A, etc.) in the Churchill Archives Center, Cambridge.
46 Ibid.
47 Courrier du Préfet de Police, Direction de la Sûreté Générale, Contrôle Générale des Services de Police Ad. No. 583. I am indebted to Marika Genty for this document.
48 Ibid.
49 Ibid.
5 °Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
51 This section, see James McMillan, Twentieth-Century France, pp. 147–51, and Julian Jackson, France: The Dark Years, pp. 561–66.
52 Jackson, pp. 577–92.
53 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
54 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, pp. 113–15.
55 Charles Roux, pp. 346, 349.
56 Malcolm Muggeridge, Chronicles of Wasted Time, vol. XI, The Infernal Grove, p. 242.
57 Churchill Archives Center documents referred to above, note 45.
58 Documents and letters between the Foreign Office and the Zonal Executive Offices, Germany, between 1947 and 1948: http://www.nationalarchives.gov.uk/catalogue/displaycataloguedetails.asp?CATLN=6&CATID=1957690, and CATLN=6&CATID =3579445&j=1.
CHAPTER 28: Exile
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, pp. 146, 147.
2 Ibid., p. 12.
3 Ibid.
4 Ibid., p. 170.
5 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 173.
6 Guy de Rothschild, The Whims of Fortune, p. 216.
7 Ibid.
8 Paul Morand, Journal inutile, January 11, 1971.
9 Robert Fizdale and Arthur Gold, The Life of Misia Sert, p. 292.
10 Ibid.
11 Ibid., p. 300.
12 Diana Mosley, ed., The Letters of Nancy Mitford, p. 267.
13 Morand, Allure, p. 140.
14 Ibid., p. 65.
15 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 52.
16 Swiss Archive documents cited above.
17 Morand, Allure, p. 171.
18 Ibid., p. 143.
19 Ibid., p. 73.
20 Ibid., p. 120.
21 Ibid., p. 169.
22 Ibid., pp. 172–73.
23 Axel Madsen, Chanel: A Woman of Her Own, p. 267.
24 Charles Roux, Chanel, p. 380.
25 Haedrich, p. 237.
26 In an interview and a number of telephone conversations, Michel Déon was most helpful in his nonjudgmental attitude toward Gabrielle, including the fantasies crucial to her sanity.
27 Michel Déon interview with author, August 2009.
28 Ibid.
29 Ibid.
30 Ibid.
CHAPTER 29: Return: 1954
1 Dodie Kazanjian and Calvin Tomkins, Alex: The Life of Alexander Liberman, p. 205.
2 Christian Dior, Dior by Dior, p. 16.
3 Ibid.
4 Ibid., p. 4.
5 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 237.
6 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 197.
7 Ibid., p. 200.
8 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 120.
9 Chanel Conservatoire interview with Jean Cazaubon.
10 Galante, p. 207.
11 Cocteau, Le passé défini: Journal, vol. II.
CHAPTER 30: I Prefer Disaster to Nothingness
1 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 169.
2 Ibid., p. 171.
3 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 210.
4 Susan Train interview with author, September 2008. Ms. Train’s vivid recall of this dramatic episode was inspiring.
5 Ibid.
6 Ibid.
7 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 18.
8 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
9 Lady Derwent interview with author, May 2008.
10 Bettina Ballard, In My Fashion, p. 311.
11 Ibid.
12 Galante, p. 225.
13 Diana Vreeland, DV, p. 132.
14 Ibid., p. 131.
15 Ibid., p. 130.
16 Ballard, p. 60.
17 Vogue, March 1959.
18 Marquand, p. 87.
19 Ibid., pp. 93, 119.
20 Roland Barthes, The Language of Fashion.
21 Haedrich, p. 215.
22 Ibid., p. 245.
23 Ibid., p. 240.
24 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 45.
25 Galante, p. 268.
26 Morand, Allure, p. 52.
27 Galante, p. 269.
28 Haedrich, p. 178.
29 Ibid.
3 °Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 142.
31 Ibid., p. 145.
CHAPTER 31: I Only Hear My Heart on the Stairs
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 55.
2 Claude Delay, Chanel Solitaire, p. 49.
3 Marika Genty, whose knowledge and apprehension of Gabrielle are almost unrivaled, in interview with author, September 2008.
4 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 222.
5 Pierre Galante, Mademoiselle Chanel, p. 276.
6 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
7 Morand, Allure, p. 21.
8 Ibid.
9 Michel Déon in interview with author.
10 Haedrich, p. 260.
11 Morand, Allure, p. 38.
12 Haedrich, p. 214.
13 Paul Morand, Journal inutile, June 3, 1969.
14 Claude Delay, interview with author, January 2010. Madame Delay’s thoughts on her friend’s inner life were instructive, and her comprehension of Gabrielle as unable to survive without her fantasies is most perceptive.
15 Lilou Marquand, Chanel m’a dit, p. 43.
16 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
17 Marquand.
18 Delay, p. 147.
19 Ibid., p. 161.
20 Ibid.
21 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
22 Haedrich, p. 259.
23 Marquand, p. 167.
24 Claude Delay in interview with author, January 2010.
25 Marquand, pp. 150–51.
26 Haedrich, p. 86.
27 An ex-Chanel model in conversation.
28 Delay, p. 164.
29 Massaro interview, Marika Genty.
30 Michel Déon, Bagages pour Vancouver, p. 276.
31 Morand, Allure, p. 169.
AFTERWORD: Those on Whom Legends Are Built Are Their Legends
1 Paul Morand, The Allure of Chanel, p. 175.
2 Marcel Haedrich, Coco Chanel, p. 226.
3 Un Roi Seul, Dir. T. Demaizière and A. Y. Teurlai, 2008.
4 Suzy Menkes in interview with Karl Lagerfeld, International Herald Tribune, November 2010.
5 Un Roi Seul.
6 Morand, Allure, p. 21.
7 Chanel interview BNF.
8 Suzy Menkes in interview with Karl Lagerfeld, International Herald Tribune, 2010.
9 Haedrich, p. 17.
10 Morand, Allure, p. 45.