Abdy, Lady
Abernon, Helen d’
Abetz, Otto
Abetz, Suzanne
Action Française
actresses
Aimée, Anouk
Alain-Fournier
À la recherche du temps perdu (Proust)
Albania
Alcazar
aldehydes
Alençon, Emilienne d’
Alexander, King of Yugoslavia
alienation
Allenby, Edmund
Allied Force Headquarters
Allied War Coal Commission
Allure of Chanel, The (Morand)
Amazons
American Emergency Rescue Committee
Amiot, Félix
Angèle (seamstress)
Antigone (Sophocles)
anti-Semitism
Apollinaire, Guillaume
Apollon musagète (ballet)
Après-midi d’un faune, L’ (ballet)
Aquascutum
Aragon, Louis
A. Rallet & Co.
Arbuthnot-Leslie, Mrs. William
Arcangues, Comtesse Mimi D’
archery
architecture
Argentina
Arletty
Arnaud, Marie-Hélène
Arrivabene, Madina
Arrivabene, Niki
Astruc, Gabriel
atelier system
Aubazine convent
Aubert, Mme.
Auden, W. H.
Auric, Georges
Auschwitz
Austria
Avedon, Richard
Bacall, Lauren
Bader, Théophile
Bailey, David
Baker, Josephine
Bakst, Léon
Balanchine, George
Bal du Comte d’Orgel, Le
Balenciaga, Cristóbal
Ballard, Bettina
Ballets Russes
Balmain, Pierre
Balsan, Charles
Balsan, Consuelo Vanderbilt
Balsan, Etienne
and Coco’s relationship with Capel
as horseman
in proposals to Coco
as womanizer
Balsan, Jacques
Balsan, Robert
Balzac, Honoré de
Banque de France
Barney, Natalie
Barrie, J. M.
Barrow, George de Symons
Barthes, Roland
Barthou, Foreign Minister
Basilica of Saint Anthony, Padua
Bate, Frederick
Bate-Lombardi, Vera
battle of the sexes
Beaton, Cecil
Beaufort Castle
Beaumont, Edith
Beaumont, Etienne de
Beaumont College
Beaux, Ernest
Bedford, Sybille
Beige
Bel Ami (Maupassant)
belle excentrique, La (ballet)
Bel Respiro
Bend’Or
Bérard, Christian (Bébé)
Bergen, Candice
Bergman, Ingrid
Bernhardt, Sarah
Bernstein, Antoinette
Bernstein, Georges
Bernstein, Henri-Adrien
Berthelot, Philippe
Besson, Luc
beuglants
Biarritz, France
bias-cut clothes
Bibesco, Princess Marthe
Bibliothèque Nationale
biches, Les (Diaghilev ballet)
Blanche, Jacques-Emile
Bloomingdale’s
blues
Blue Train
Blum, Léon
boeuf sur le toit, Le (Cocteau)
Boeuf sur le Toit, Le (bar)
Bohan, Marc
Boldini, Giovanni
Bon Marché, Le
Bonnard, Pierre
Boulez, Pierre
Bouquet, Carole
Bouquet de Catherine
Bourdelle, Antoine
Bourjois
Bousquet, Marie-Louise
boussac, Marcel
Bow, Clara
brands
Braque, Georges
Breker, Arno
Bresson, Robert
Breton, André
British Expeditionary Force
British War Office
Brosse
Brown Network, The
Brunhoff, Maurice de
Brunhoff, Michel de
Buchenwald
Bullitt, William
Burberry
Burton, Richard
cabarets
Café de Paris
café society
Caillavet, Simone de
calisthenics
camellia flower
Capel, Ann Diana France Ayesha
Capel, Arthur
birth of
Coco’s first meeting with
Coco supported by
death of
inheritance of
letters of
marriage proposal to Wyndham by
on Misia’s decorations
in Morand’s novel
poor health of
rumored paternity of
in Sem’s caricature
at Sorel’s dinner party
treatise on women by
at Versailles conference
will of
womanizing by
work done by
in World War I,
Wyndham’s affair with
Capel, Arthur Joseph
Capel, Bertha
Capel, Berthe
Capel, Edith
Capel, June
Capel, Marie-Henriette
Capel, Thomas
Caracciolo, Olga
Cardin, Pierre
Cartier
Caryathis (Elise Toulemon)
Casa Maury, Marquise de
Casati, Luisa
Castelain, Admiral
Castellane, Boni de
Castries, Countess
Catholics
Céline (Gabrielle’s maid)
Cendrars, Blaise
Cévennes, France
Chagall, Marc
Chaillet, Robert
Chamberlain, Neville
Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne
Chambrun, René de
Chanel, Adrienne
advertising for Coco by
in affair with de Nexon
beuglants visited by
clothing of
death of
at draper’s shop
at Notre Dame convent
suitors of
Chanel, Alphonse
birth of
death of
placed with peasant farmers
Chanel, Angélina
Chanel, Antoinette
in Aubazine convent
at Biarritz shop
birth of
in Coco’s hat shop
in departure to Buenos Aires
marriage of
at Notre Dame convent
suicide of
Chanel, Eugénie Jeanne Devolle:
Coco’s reminiscences of
death of
marriage of
pregnancy of
work by
Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco):
appearance of
artistic character of
artists supported by
in Aubazine convent
“aunts” of
autobiographical stories of
Balsan’s affair with
Balsan’s proprosals to
Bend’Or’s affair with
beuglants visited by
birth of
bisexuality of
Capel’s affair with
Capel’s death and
Capel’s educating of
Capel’s support for
Catholicism of
Chapel’s marriage and
childhood pranks of
cleanliness as preoccupation of
collaboration charge against
Dalí’s affair with
in Dalí’s novel
dancing by
death of
d’Harcourt’s affair with
at draper’s shop
drug use of
education of
effects of Depression on
in escape from World War II Paris
estate of
grudge against family held by
hats worn by
as horsewoman
importance of socializing to
independence pursued by
influence sought by
injuries of
intelligence of
Iribe’s affair with
kidnapped by Resistance
lack of sophistication in
life story desired by
Lipchitz’s sculpture of
loneliness of
luxurious lifestyle of
make-believe practiced by
memoirs of
as modern woman
modesty of
money earned by
in Morand’s novel
mother’s death and
myth of
needlework of
nickname of
at Notre Dame convent
novels read by
at Parade’s premiere
paradoxes of
Pavlovich’s affair with
peace settlement negotiations of
photos of
polo learned by
practicality of
at premier of Rite of Spring
as rejected by father
as reluctant writer
Reverdy’s affair with
Ritz decorated by
Rolls-Royce of
servants’ relationship with
short hair of
singing by
sleepwalking by
small number of letters written by
at Sorel’s dinner party
stories of father retold and revised by
Stravinsky’s affair with
as superstitious
in Switzerland
unhappy childhood of
Visconti’s affair with
Chanel, Gabrielle (Coco), as designer:
advertising for
in affair with von Dincklage
Antigone’s costumes designed by
austerity and simplicity of
at balls
Biarritz salon opened by
business details disdained by
Cocteau’s friendship with
competitors of
couture house closed during World War II by
criticism of
Dali’s work with
Deauville shop opened by
earliest dresses of
Fenosa’s affair with
growing reputation of
in Hollywood
imitation jewelry of
impeccable timing of
Lagerfeld as apprentice to
for La Marseillaise
large output of
for Le Train Bleu
little black dress of
in magazines
materials used by
method of creation in
as milliner
models for
in move into Ritz
for 1919 spring ball
of pajamas
Picasso’s affair with
practicality of
Radiguet’s funeral and
registered as couturier
Rules of the Game costumes designed by
in Sem’s caricature
upper classes hired by
in World War I,
see also Chanel № 5
Chanel, Henri-Adrien
Chanel, Henri-Albert (Albert)
children abandoned by
Coco’s retelling of stories about
Jean’s family’s dislike of
marriage refused by
as womanizer
Chanel, Hippolyte
Chanel, House of
World War II closing of
Chanel, Joseph
Chanel, Julia-Berthe
in Aubazine convent
birth of
mother’s death and
at Notre Dame convent
suicide of
Chanel, Louise
Chanel, Lucien
birth of
death of
placed with peasant farmers
Chanel (farmhouse)
Chanel Company
Chanel Modes
Chanel N°
bottles for
business dispute over
creation of
ingredients in
naming of
sales of
Chanel № 19,
Chanel № 22,
Chanel Parfums
Chantilly racetrack
Chaplin, Charlie
Chardon, Augustin
Charles-Roux, Edmonde
Charvet, House of
Chase, Margaret
Chautemps, Camille
Chazot, Jacques
Cheruit, Madeleine
Chevalier, Maurice
Chevigné, Comtesse de
chinchilla
Chloé
Choltitz, Dietrich von
Churchill, Clementine
Churchill, Rudolph
Churchill, Winston
Ciro’s
Clair, René
Claire, Ina
Clarke, Henry
Claudine à l’école (Colette)
Clemenceau, Georges
coal
Coco (musical)
Coco Mademoiselle
Cocteau, Jean
Antigone modernized by
ballet costumes designed by
on Coco’s religion
death of
drugs used by
in love with Radiguet
Parade libretto written by
Coga Foundation
Colbert, Claudette
Coleridge, Samuel Taylor
Colette, Sidonie-Gabrielle
collars
colors
Comédie Française
communists
Comœdia Illustré
Concertino for String Quartet (Stravinsky)
Condé Nast Publications
Congregation of the Sacred Heart of Mary, Aubazine
Cooper, Diana
Cooper, Duff
Copeau, Jacques
Coromandel screens
Corrigan, Laura
corsets
cotton
Count d’Orgel’s Ball (Radiguet)
Courpière, France
Courrèges, Andrés
courtesans
Cravates de chanvre (Reverdy)
cross-dressing
Croÿ, Odile de, Princesse
cubism
Cuir de Russie
Cukor, George
Cunard, Nancy
Cutty Sark (Bend’Or’s yacht)
Cyril Vladimirovich, Grand Duke of Russia
Czechoslovakia
Dada
Daladier, Edouard
Dalí, Gala
Dalí, Salvador
Coco’s affair with
in collaboration with Schiaparelli
letters to Coco from
Dame aux camélias, La (Dumas)
D’Arcangues, Comtesse Mimi
Davelli, Gabrielle
Davelli, Marthe
Daves, Jessica
Davidol
Davies, Lady Mary
D-day
Deauville, France
Deauville racetrack
Debussy, Claude
Decourcelle, Pierre
Degas, Edgar
de Gaulle, Charles
Delay, Claude
Delay, Jean
Delay, Marie-Louise
de Mille, Cecil B.
democracy
Demoiselles d’Avignon, Les (Picasso)
Deneuve, Catherine
Denis, Maurice
Denmark
Déon, Michel
department stores
de Pougy, Liane
de Quincey, Thomas
Derby, Lord
Desbordes, Jean
Desbutin, M. and Mme.
Dessoffy, Comte
Dessoffy, Hélène, Comtesse
Devil in the Flesh, The (Radiguet)
Devolle, Marin
Diaghilev, Sergei
ballets by
death of
drugs and
and Gabrielle
homosexuality of
Misia’s friendship with
dialects
Dietrich, Marlene
Dincklage, Georg-Jito von
Dincklage, Hans Günther, Baron von
divorce of
Dior, Christian
Dirys, Jeanne
Dmitri Pavlovich, Grand Duke of Russia
death of
diary of
Gabrielle’s affair with
Dolin, Anton
Dorziat, Gabrielle
Doubazow, Countess
Doucet, Jacques
Downside School
Doyle, Arthur Conan
dressmakers
Drieu La Rochelle, Pierre
drugs
Dubois, André-Louis
Duchamp, Marcel
Duff, Juliet
Dullin, Charles
Dumas, Alex
Duncan, Isadora
du Plessix, Tatiana
Durst, André
Eau de Chanel
education
Edwards, Alfred
Edwards, Misia, see Sert, Misia Edwards
Edward VII, King of England
Edward VIII, King of England (formerly Prince of Wales)
Eiffel Tower
Eisenhower, Dwight D.
Eldorado
Elle
Erlanger, Baba d’
Ernst, Max
Eugénie, Empress of France
eurythmics
exercise
fake-pearl stud earrings
fashion
change in
as democratic
Gabrielle’s revolutionary style in
in movies
place and moment expressed by
practical outfits for women in
at racetracks
style vs.
subjectivity of
Fashion Group Import Show
Faubourg Saint-Honoré
Faucigny-Lucinge, Princess Baba Erlanger de
Fauré, Gabriel
Fellowes, Daisy
Fellowes, Reginald
Femina
femme fatale
Fendi
Fenosa, Apelles
Féraud, Louis
Ferguson Brothers
feuilletons
Figaro, Le
Fitzgerald, F. Scott
Flanner, Janet
flappers
Fleming, Oscar
Flying Cloud (Bend’Or’s yacht)
Foch, Ferdinand
Folies-Bergère
Forsane
Foucault, Madeleine de
Fougère Royale
Fournier, Virginie-Angélina
Fourniers
fox-hunting
Foy, Baron
France
physical culture in
post-World War I rebuilding of
see also Paris; World War I
Franco, Francisco
François, Lucien
Fraser, Laura
Fraser, Simon
Freemasons
French language
French Revolution
Freud, Sigmund
futurism
Galeries Lafayette
Garbo, Greta
garçonne, la
Garçonne, La (Margueritte novel)
Gardénia
Gaulois, Le
Gauthier-Villars, Henry (Willy)
Gellibrand, Paula
Gentlemen Philosophers (at Stonyhurst)
George V, King of England
Gerbière, La (house)
German Intelligence Service
German Supreme Command
Germany, see World War I
Gestapo
Ghika, Princess (Lianne de Pougy)
Giacometti, Alberto
Gide, André
Gish, Lillian
Go-Between, The (L. P. Hartley)
Goebbels, Joseph
Goering, Emmy
Goering, Hermann
Goldwyn, Samuel
Goosens, Robert
Goudeket, Maurice
Gould, Florence
Goursat, Georges, see Sem (Georges Goursat)
Gramont, Duc Armand de
Gramont, Duchesse de Clermont-Tonnerre, Elisabeth de
Gramont, Maria de
Grand Café
Grand Meaulnes, Les (Alain-Fournier)
grands magasins
Grangeémentine de la, Baroness
Grasset, Bernard
Great Britain
in World War I,
Great Depression
Gripoix, Madame
Gris, Juan
grisettes
Grumbach, Lilou Marquand, see Marquand, Lilou
Guerlain, Aimé
Guilbert, Yvette
Guitry, Sacha
Guyborget, Philippe
hair
Harcourt, Antoinette d’, Comtesse
Harcourt, François d’, Comte
Harcourt, Jean d’, Comte
harem pants
Harper’s Bazaar
Hartley, L. P.
hats
Haussman, Georges-Eugène
Heim, Philippe
Heller, Gerhard
Helleu, Jacques
Helleu, Jean
Helleu, Paul
hemlines
Henley, Mrs. Anthony, Hon.
Henraux, Lucien
Henri II, King of France
Hepburn, Katharine
Hidden Faces (Dalí)
Hinnisdal, Mlle. d’
Hitler, Adolf
Hoare, Samuel, Sir
Holland
homosexuality
Honegger, Arthur
horizontal collaboration
horse racing
horse riding
Horst, Horst P.
Hôtel de Lauzan see also Faubourg St-Honoré
Houbigant
Hugo, François
Hugo, Jean
Hugo, Valentine
Huguenots
Hutton, Barbara
Huxley, Aldous
Huxley, Julian
Huxley, Maria
Idylle saphique (de Pougy)
India
industrialization
Iribarnegaray, Maybelle
Iribe (Paul Iribarnegaray)
Italy
jackets
Jacob, Max
Jacques-Dalcroze, Emile
jasmine
jazz
jeans
jersey
jerseys
Jesuits
jewelry
Jews
Jicky
Jockey Club (Paris)
Jouhandeau, Marcel
Jünger, Ernst
Karajan, Herbert von
Karam, Princess of Kapurthala
Kay, Patrick
Kelly, Grace
Kensington University College
Kessel, Georges
Kidman, Nicole
King of Kings (film)
Kisling, Moise
Kitmir (embroidery company)
Klein, Samuel
Knightley, Keira
Knights of the Round Table, The
Kochno, Boris
Koutouzof, Count
Krebs, Germaine
Kutter-Micklefield, Marie-Valery
Laborde, Comte Léon de
Labrunie, Gabrielle
Labyrinth, The (Schellenberg)
Lagerfeld, Karl
Laloy, Louis
Lang, Fritz
Lanvin, Jeanne
Laroche, Guy
Laurencin, Marie
Laurens, Henri
Laval, Pierre
Lawrence, D. H. and Frieda
Leclerc, Joseph
Leclerc, Marie
Leclerc, Suzanne
Lee, William
Left Bank
Léger, Fernand
Lelong, Natalie
Lempicka, Tamara de
Lenin. I.
Lerbier, Monique
Léry, Jeanne
Lesage
lesbians
Lestringuez, Pierre
Leusse, Claude de
Lewis, Maison
Lewis et Irène (Morand)
Liberman, Alex
Liberman, Tatiana du Plessix
Lifar, Serge
Lipchitz, Jacques
Lister, Thomas. See Ribblesdale, Lord.
little black dress
livre de la fumée, Le (Laloy)
Lollobrigida, Gina
Lombardi, Colonel
Londsdale, Lord
Longchamp racecourse
Loos, Anita
Louis XIV, King of France
Louis Napoléon
Lovat, Laura, Lady
Lovat, Lord
Lubersac, Odon de
Ludres, Marquise de
Luxemburg, Rosa
Macy’s
Madoux, Georges
Maeght, Aimé
magazines
mail order catalogues
Mainbocher
Mallarmé, Stefan
Malraux, André
Mann, Thomas
Manners, Diana
Manning, Cardinal
Man Ray
Marais, Jean
Marcus, Neiman, Fashion Oscar
Margueritte, Victor
Maria Pavlovna (the elder), Grand Duchess of Russia
Marie Pavlovna (the younger), Grand Duchess of Russia
embroideries of
Mariés de la Tour Eiffel, Les (Cocteau)
Maritain, Jacques
Marling, Charles and Lucia
Marne, First Battle of
Marquand, Christian
Marquand, Lilou
Marseillaise, La (film)
Martínez de Hoz, Madame
Martinez de Hoz, Paul Eduardo
Massine, Léonide
Massis, Henri-Adrien
Matisse, Henri
Maugham, Somerset
Maupassant, Guy de
Maurras, François
Maxim’s
Mazuel, Maud
Mdivani, Roussadana See also Sert.
Medici, Catherine de’
Mendl, Lady
Menkes, Suzy
Meyer, Baron Adolphe de
Meyer, Olga Caracciolo de
Michelham, Lady
Milhaud, Darius
Mille, Gérard
Mille, Hervé
Millin, Bill
milliners
miniskirt
Mironnet, Jean (François)
Mistinguett
Mitford, Nancy
Mode, Les
modernism
Modigliani, Amedeo
Moltke, Helmuth von
Molyneux, Edward
Momm, Theodor
Monroe, Marilyn
Monte Carlo
Morand, Paul
Gabrielle’s memoirs taken down by
Lewis et Irène written by
Sorel’s dinner party recorded by
Moreau, Jeanne
Moulin Rouge
Moulins, France
Mournay, Comte de (Zed)
Moustiers, Comtesse
Muggeridge, Malcolm
Mugnier, Abbé
mulberries
Munich pact
Munnings, Hilda
Murat, Therese, Comtesse
Murat, Violette, Princesse
Murphy, Gerald and Sara
Mussolini, Benito
Nametalla, Marguerite (Maggie van Zuylen)
Nana (Zola)
Napoléon I, Emperor of France
Napoléon III, Emperor of France (Louis Napoléon)
Nast, Condé
Natanson, Thadée
National Broadcasting Corporation (NBC)
New Look, the
New York, N.Y.
New Yorker
New York Times
Nexon, Barone Maurice de
Nicholas II, Tsar
Nijinska, Bronislava
Nijinsky, Vaslav
Noailles, Comtesse Anna de
Noces, Les (ballet)
Noces villageoises, Les (Diaghilev ballet)
Nord-Sud
Northcliffe, Alfred
Norway
Nothing Doing Bar. See also Boeuf sur le Toit, Le
Notre Dame convent
novels, serial
Nuremberg war trials
Odile de Croÿ, Princesse
Oedipus Rex (Cocteau)
Ollivier, Valéry
Operation Modelhut
Orlandi, Suzanne
Otero, Caroline
pajamas
Palasse, André
Paquin, Jeanne
Parade (Diaghilev ballet)
Paramount
Parfums Chanel, Les
Paris
bohemian life in
demimonde of
fashion in
homosexuality in
magnificence promoted in
under Nazi occupation
rebuilding of
in World War I,
in World War II,
Paris commune of
Parisian Jeu de Paume
Paris Match
Paris Polo Club
Paris spring collection (1939)
Parker, Suzy
Parquet, Paul
Patou, Jean
Paul Alexandrovich, Grand Duke of Russia
Pausa, La
pearls
Péguy, Charles
Penn, Irving
Pereire, Jacob Emile
Pétain, Philippe
physical culture
Picabia, Francis
Picasso, Olga
Picasso, Pablo
Antigone’s set by
Gabrielle’s affair with
Parade’s set created by
Pulcinella’s set created by
Pillet-Will, Comte
pink
Pinto, Lieutenant
Poincaré, Raymond
Poiret, Paul
Poland
Polge, Jacques
Pompidou, Claude
Ponsonby, Loelia (Duchess of Westminster)
Ponteils, France, (ancestral hamlet of the Chanels)
Popular Front
Portarlington, Lady
Porter, Cole
Poulenc, Francis
Pound, Ezra
Prokofiev, Sergei
Propaganda-Abteilung
prostitution
Proust, Marcel
Pulcinella (Diaghilev ballet)
Quant, Mary
Rabanne, Paco
Rabaté, Lucienne
rabbit fur
Rachmaninov, Sergei
Radiguet, Raymond
Radziwill, Countess
Radziwill, Princess
railways
Rallet N. 1,
Rasputin, Grigori
Ravel, Maurice
rayon
Reay Forest
Reves, Emery
Reflections of Victory (Capel)
Règle du Jeau, La (film)
Rehbinder, Countess
Renoir, Auguste
Renoir, Jean
Requena, Comtesse de
Resistance
Reverdy, Henriette
Reverdy, Pierre death of
revue blanche, La
Reynaud, Paul
Ribbentrop, Joachim von
Ribblesdale, Lord
Ricci, Nina
Ripon, Gladys, Lady
Ristelhueber, Boulos
Rite of Spring, The (ballet)
changes to
premier of
Ritz
roads
Rochas, Marcel
Rodier, Jean
Roger, Lucienne
Rohan-Montbazon, Duchesse de
Romania
Rommel, Erwin
Roosevelt, Franklin D.
Rosslyn, Lady
Rothschild, Diane “Kitty” de
Rothschild, Guy de
Rothschild, Lili de
Rothschild, Marie-Hélène
Rothschild, Nadine
Rothschild, Robert
Rothschild family
Rouault, Georges
Rouchefoucauld family
Rousseau, Douanier
Rowley, Violet
Royallieu (château)
Rubinstein, Arthur
Rubinstein, Helena
Rubinstein, Ida
Rules of the Game, The (film)
Russia Revolution
sable
Sachs, Maurice
Sagan, Françoise
Saint-Exupéry, Antoine de
Saint-Jean-de-Luz, France
Saint Laurent, Yves
Saint-Sauveur, Pauline de
Saks
Salverte, Jeanne de
Samaritaine, La
Sanary, France
Santos-Dumont, ALberto
Sargent, John Singer
Sartre, Jean-Paul
Satie, Erik
satin
Schellenberg, Walter
Schiaparelli, Elsa
in collaboration with Dalí
Schiaparelli, Gogo
Schillinger, Hans
Schneider, Romy
Schoenebeck, Baron von
Schoenebeck, Maximiliana von (Catsy), married von Dincklage
Schoenebeck, Sybille (Bedford)
Scott, Ridley
sea bathing
Second Empire, France
Secret of the Medici
Segonzac, André de
Segonzac, Comte Jean de
Sem (Georges Goursat)
Sert, José Maria
Sert, Misia Edwards
as affected by Depression
as annoyed with Gabrielle’s philanthropy
and creation of Chanel № 5,
decorating by
deserted by Sert
Diaghilev’s friendship with
drugs used by
Gabrielle influenced by
Gabrielle placed in apartment by
and Gabrielle’s affair with Stravinsky
memoirs of
salon acquired by
at Sorel’s party
sewing machines
sexual inclinations
Seyrig, Delphine
Shervashidze, Prince
shoulder pads
silk
Simpson, Wallis
Singer, Winnaretta
Six, Les
Sjorza, Countess
skirts
short
smart trousers
Smith, Pamela, Lady
Snow, Carmel
social hierarchies
Sokolova, Lydia (Hilda Munnigs)
Somme, Battle of
Sorel, Cécile
Soviet Union
Spain
Spears, Edward
Speer, Albert
Spiritualism
Stern, Herman
stock market crash (1929)
Stöhrer, Ute von
Stonyhurst College
Stravinsky, Catherine
Stravinsky, Igor
death of
Gabrielle’s affair with
Streitz, Robert
strikes in France
Stroheim, Erich von
Stülpnagel, Carl-Heinrich von
style, fashion vs.
Sullivan, Anne
suntans
surrealism
Swanson, Gloria
sweaters
Sweetinburgh, Thelma
swimsuits
Switzerland
Synarchist Empire Movement
Syndicat de la Couture
syphilis
Tagore, Rabindranath
Talmadge, Norma
Tatou, Audrey
Taylor, Elizabeth
Tehran Conference (1943)
Témoin, Le
Ten Commandments, The (film)
Tender Is the Night (Fitzgerald)
10th Light Horse Regiment
Théâtre des Arts
Théâtre des Champs-Elysées
Theosophists
Time
Times, The (London)
Tonight or Never (film)
Toulemon, Elise (Caryathis)
Toulmin, Evelyn
Toulouse-Lautrec, Henri
Train, Susan
Train Bleu
Train Bleu, Le (ballet)
Traviata, La (opera)
tweed
Tzara, Tristan
United States
in World War I,
Uriage, France
Uzanne, Octave
Vadim, Roger
Valentino
Valéry, Paul
Vallat, Xavier
Vanderbilt, Consuelo
Varennes, France
Vaufreland, Louis de
Vendôme
Venice, Italy
Verdun, Battle of
Verlaine, Paul
Versailles Conference (1919)
Vichy, France
Victoria, Grand Duchess
Victory Ball, Paris
Viezaux, Etienne de (St. Stephen)
Viggiano, Yvonne
Villa Larralde
Vilmorin, Louise de
Vionnet, Madeleine
Visconti, Luchino
Vivien, Renée
Vogue
Vreeland, Diana
Vuillard, Édouard
Wagner, Richard
waistlines
Wales, David Prince of, see Edward VIII, King of England
Warkowska, Madame
Waugh, Evelyn
Weber-Rosenkranz, Baroness
Wertheimer, Alain
Wertheimer, Gérard
Wertheimer, Jacques
Wertheimer, Paul
Wertheimer, Pierre
West, Mae
West, Shelagh
Westminster, Duke of, see Bend’Or
Wilhelm II, Kaiser
Williams, Harrison
Williams, Mona
women
bodies of
horse riding by
liberation of
in men’s clothes
practical outfits worn by
Women’s Wear Daily
Woolf, Virginia
World War I,
casualties of
French mutinies in
technology in
World War II,
Gabrielle’s escape from Paris in
Phony War in
Worth, Charles Frederick
Wyndham, Diana
Capel’ affair with
Gabrielle disliked by
Wyndham, Percy
youth
Yturbe, Miguel de
Zola, Emile
Zuylen, Egmont van
Zuylen, Maggie van
Zweig, Arnold
1. The vast chestnut forests seen from Ponteils, the mountainous Cevennes hamlet where Gabrielle’s paternal ancestors lived.
2. Gabrielle’s great-grandfather’s inn, “the Chanel.” Today, the shutters firmly shut, its stony bulk has an air of neglect.
3. The Aubazine convent-orphanage where Gabrielle lived for many years.
4. The earliest known photograph of Gabrielle, with Adrienne at Vichy c. 1904.
5. Etienne Balsan on military service, c. 1903, around the time Gabrielle met him.
6. Gabrielle, c. 1909. Tastes were changing; her angular “modern” beauty had become desirable.
7. The famed courtesan, Emilienne d’Alençon, Etienne Balsan’s lover when Gabrielle appeared on the scene.
8. Royallieu, where Gabrielle lived with Etienne as his mistress.
9. Arthur “Boy” Capel, c. 1910, who was to transform Gabrielle’s life.
10. Arthur Capel and Gabrielle. Jodhpurs and sitting astride were unconventional for a horsewoman in 1910.
11. Arthur Capel was a noted horseman and excelled at polo.
12. Gabrielle in her own hats, seen in Comoedia Illustré, 1910.
13. The actress Gabrielle Dorziat 1910, in “Marie-Louise” hats, almost indistinguishable from Gabrielle’s own designs.
14. Gabrielle Dorziat in a Chanel hat for the play Bel Ami, 1912.
15. Gabrielle Dorziat in another Chanel hat, 1912.
16. Outside Gabrielle’s boutique with Adrienne (left) in Deauville, 1913. Note the awning reading “Gabrielle Chanel.”
17. By 1913 Gabrielle was becoming known, and Sem caricatured her with her immensely eligible lover Arthur Capel.
18. Gabrielle at her Deauville shop doorway. Previously unrecognized, on her right is Capel; furthest right is Balsan, still a friend. (There are only a handful of known photos of Gabrielle and Capel together.)
19. Gabrielle was in the minority of women who took to playing sports. At Deauville, c. 1913.
20. Gabrielle, Capel and Constant
Say at St-Jean-de-Luz in a moment of calm during the First World War.
21. The Picassos in front of Pablo’s Ballets Russes poster, 1917. Olga’s outfit, including her handbag, are Chanel.
22. John Singer Sargent’s drawing of Diana Wyndham, the young Englishwoman who would usurp Gabrielle.
23. Deauville Polo Club’s Arthur Capel trophy, given by his sister, Berthe, possibly in conjunction with Gabrielle.
24. Sergei Diaghilev (left) and Igor Stravinsky, c. 1920, with whom Gabrielle became intimately associated.
25. Clockwise from top left: Stravinsky, José Maria Sert, Gabrielle and the inimitable Misia Sert.
26. Grand Duke Dmitri Pavlovich.
27. Gabrielle in the garden of her palatial new address, 29 Faubourg St-Honoré, early 1920s.
28. Dmitri Pavlovich. with Gabrielle, 1920.
29. The earliest depiction of Chanel № 5, by Sem, c. 1921–2.
30. Gabrielle’s costumes for Le Train bleu, 1922, were crucial to its up-to-the-minute air. Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Jean Cocteau, Leon Woizikovsky, Bronislava Nijinska.
31. Lydia Sokolova, Anton Dolin, Bronislava Nijinska and Leon Woizikovsky in Le Train bleu.
32. Lubov Tchernicheva as Calliope in Apollon musagète, 1929, her tricot tunic bound with neckties from Charvet, a classically simple Chanel touch.
33. The poet Pierre Reverdy, whom Gabrielle lost to his religion.
34. Paul Morand, man of letters, who took Gabrielle’s memoir.
35. Bend’Or, Second Duke of Westminster.
36. The Duke of Westminster’s Cheshire home, Eaton Hall.
37. Gabrielle with Winston and Randolph Churchill, boar-hunting on Bend’Or’s French estate, 1928.
38. Marion Morehouse in a signature “little black dress” by Gabrielle, 1926.
39. At Biarritz, 1928, in her trademark jersey, two-tone shoes and imitation jewelery.
40. Gabrielle on the Venice Lido, c. 1930, with Misia Sert and Madame Berthelot. José Maria Sert is behind.
41. Skiing with society; Gabrielle (center). Behind are Etienne and Edith de Beaumont.
42. Gabrielle in jersey suit, c. 1931; note the return of the waist.
43. In New York, 1931, on Gabrielle’s triumphant first trip to the United States.
44. Gabrielle with English society models, 1932; Lady Pamela Smith stands.
45. With and photographed by Cecil Beaton, c. 1937.
46. Gabrielle, her jewelery designer Fulco di Verdura and his work, 1937.
47. With Salvador Dalí, c. 1938.
48. Apelles Fenosa sculpts Gabrielle, c. 1939.
49. Gabrielle’s close friend Maggie van Zuylen and the dancer Serge Lifar.
50. Baron von Dincklage at fifty-four, Gabrielle’s lover during and after the war.
51. Gabrielle’s 1954 suit, in the U.S. Vogue photo shoot, was instrumental in resuscitating her name.
52. Suzy Parker, in one of the three outfits shot for U.S. Vogue in 1954.
53. On the famed staircase at 31 rue Cambon, before Gabrielle’s 1954 comeback show.
54. Some of the models who added luster to Maison Chanel: Marie-Hélène Arnaud, Gisèle Francome, Paule Rizzo and Mimi d’Arcangues in 1958.
55. Gabrielle, once again famous, in a characteristic pose, 1959.
56. Gabrielle’s sculptures seen in the salon at rue Cambon: in the fireplace a Jacques Lipchitz; on the mantel, classical torso and masks.
57. At rue Cambon, the bust of Thomas Capel on mantel, Gabrielle’s astrological lions on the table and a Coromandel screen behind.
58. An elderly Gabrielle in her salon with her chandelier of personal symbols, c. 1965.
59. Gabrielle’s funeral mass in the Madeleine church, January 13, 1971, her coffin draped in flowers. Her models, in Chanel, stand at the front.